I Love the Balds

 Big Hump Mountain in the Roan Highlands.  (Photograph courtesy of Beth Hemann.) 

From Jane Bald along the Appalachian Trail to Gregory Bald in the Great Smoky Mountain National Park (GSMNP), I love hiking to the balds. 

What is a bald? Balds are mountain summits covered primarily by thick vegetation of native grasses and shrubs which are found primarily in the Appalachian Mountains of the eastern United States. Normally a heavy forest growth would be expected in such an area. There are two types of balds in the Appalachians: grassy and heath. Grassy balds are blunt summits covered by a dense expanse of native grass. Heath balds are normally along narrow ridges and mountains crests where the soil is highly acidic and there is heavy drainage. Click here for more information on the origin and dynamics of the Appalachian balds. 

Why do I love hiking to the balds? Typically, it is a challenging hike due to the elevation gain, and once you've reached the summit, a spectacular 360-degree vista of the surrounding mountains. Here are some bald hikes I recommend:

Three balds in one hike:  Round Bald, Jane Bald, and Grassy Ridge Bald, also known as the Roan Balds.  

This 5.1- mile "in and out" hike begins at Carver's Gap on the Tennessee/North Carolina border.  Two of my favorite blogs, Appalachian Treks and brendajwiley.com, include more information and directions to Carver's Gap. 

After walking through a dense forest of hemlocks, you reach Round Bald at 5,825 feet elevation.   

Jane Bald, which is the second bald on this hike, offers a great view of  Round Bald and the trail you just completed at 5,820 feet.  

The view of Round Bald and Jane Bald  from Grassy Ridge Bald at 6,189 feet.  Both Round and Jane Balds are on the Appalachian Trail (AT). However, the AT veers to the left before reaching the summit of Grassy Ridge Bald. 

If you're lucky enough to visit these balds in mid to late June, the flame azaleas and rhododendrons should be in full bloom. Nearby to Carver's Gap is Rhododendron Gardens, offering more scenic views of flowers and mountains.   

Baatany Goat Project is helping to maintain the natural beauty of the Roan Balds: 

A major problem currently facing the grassy balds is woody plant encroachment. Over the last century, 75 percent of the grasslands have been lost. The Baatany Goat Project hopes to reverse these trends by using Angora goats as an experimental management tool. Goats like to eat the invading woody plants and they are good at these high elevations. They are grazed in moveable paddocks, and once the the desired grazing results have been achieved, the goats are moved to another area of the balds. The goats are sheared, treated for parasites, quarantined, and fed a seed-free food to keep them them from bringing weed seeds into the project area. The project area is about 79 acres lying along 1 mile of the Appalachian Trail corridor from Jane Bald to Grassy Ridge. Click here to learn more about this project. 

Adopt a goat and help save Roan Mountain's grassy balds.  

You can also adopt a Great Pyrenees guardian dog which protects the goats. 

On a recent Roan Balds hike, I ran into a Baatany Goat Project volunteer who was hauling supplies to Jane Bald in advance of the June 25th arrival of the goats. I had the pleasure of chatting with him and learning more about the project. Because I love to hike these balds, I hope to sponsor a goat. (Photograph courtesy of Patricia McAlpin.) 

For more information on the Roan Highlands, Rhododendron Gardens, and Roan Mountain State Park, click here.  

Andrews Bald and Gregory Bald are the only balds in the Great Smoky Mountain National Park currently maintained by the National Park Service and U.S. Forest Service. 

The 2.4-mile "in and out" hike to Andrews Bald  is on the Forney Ridge Trail which starts at the Clingmans Dome Parking area.  (The Clingmans Dome Road is closed December 1 - March 31st.) 

Flame azaleas on Andrews Bald display their natural beauty from mid-to-late June. 

Andrews Bald was named for Andres Thompson (slight spelling change) who was born in 1823 and herded cattle up to the bald in the 1840's.  (Photograph courtesy of Patricia McAlpin.)

You can learn more about the azaleas of Gregory Bald by clicking  here.  (Photograph courtesy of Patricia McAlpin.) 

The clear vista from Gregory Bald onto Cades Cove. 

Little Hump and Big Hump Mountains in the Roan Highlands are also considered grassy balds: 

The summit of Big Hump Mountain is 5,587 feet in altitude.  I've hiked the 8.4-miles "in and out" from Roaring Creek trailhead to this summit three times.  Does this prove I love the balds? 

I hope my next visit to Little Hump and Big Hump Mountains will be on an Appalachian Trail section hike in the Spring of 2015. (Photograph courtesy of Patricia McAlpin.) 

Descending Big Hump and looking onto Little Hump Mountain during my second trek to the Roan Highlands in July 2013.  (Photograph courtesy of Beth Hemann.) 

The mountains are calling: 

Flame azaleas at the Roan Balds. (Photograph courtesy of Patricia McAlpin.) 

This picture captures a few of the reasons I love to hike the balds--the peaks and valleys of the mountains, the colorful flora and fauna, and the intensely beautiful sky. Gaze at this photograph for a few moments and perhaps you'll understand why I hope to return to the Balds and "Keep On Hiking."  

Special thanks to several hiking friends who helped  make these hikes and photographs a reality:  Wayne Chambers, John Rowland, Bob Butterfield, Beth Hemann, and Patricia McAlpin. 

The Azaleas of Gregory Bald

"It is still insisted there can be nothing finer than this trip to Gregory Bald in azalea time."  - Smoky Mountain Hiking Club bulletin, 1937 

The Great Smoky Mountain National Park (GSMNP) has become one of my favorite places to hike thanks to my involvement with the Chattanooga Hiking Club. According to a favorite hike leader, “one of the most beautiful hikes in the Smokies is to the summit of Gregory Bald in mid-June when the azaleas are in bloom.”

Over 20 hikers from the club began their annual trek to view the world-famous azaleas in mid-June. There were two options for getting there: an easier route via the Gregory Bald Trail, or a longer, more difficult route via the Gregory Ridge Trail. The easier Gregory Bald trail is a 9-mile "in and out" trek starting at Parson Branch Road at Sam’s Gap which requires driving the Cades Cove Loop Road.  

I enjoy a challenge so I decided to hike the longer, more difficult route (14.3 miles) starting on the Gregory Ridge Trail at Forge Creek Road which also requires driving the Cades Cove Loop.  This longer option would also enable me to "mark off" several trails in the GSMNP as part of my long-range goal to hike all the trails in the Smokies. This route also required a shuttle. Here is the longer, more difficult route:

Gregory Ridge Trail to Gregory Bald Trail - 5 miles

Gregory Bald Trail to the Appalachian Trail at Doe Knob - 4 miles (in and out)

Gregory Bald Trail to the summit of Gregory Bald - 1.2 miles

Gregory Bald Trail to Parson Branch Road - 4.1 miles

The first two miles of the Gregory Ridge Trail follows Forge Creek and is fairly easy with a moderate elevation gain of 500 feet to Campsite No. 12. 

Campsite No. 12 is a great place for a rest and water break. 

After leaving the campsite, the 2,400-foot climb to Rich Gap begins and provides spectacular views of the western end of the GSMNP.   

It is a challenging hike at an average slope of 800 feet per mile. The undergrowth of the forest is beautiful. 

While catching my breath, I took a few moments to capture the beauty of the forest.  

According to the website, Fungal Biodiversity in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, there are over 3,500 species of macrofungi in the park. 

Some fungi are degraders, breaking down leaf litter and wood into nutrients needed by trees and shrubs.

At five miles and over 2,600 feet in elevation gain, you'll find the junction of the Gregory Ridge Trail and Gregory Bald Trail at Rich Gap. 

At Rich Gap, a left turn took me to the Appalachian Trail at Doe Knob. This 2-mile trail is not easy, but I can mark off this elusive section of the Gregory Bald Trail.  

After hiking four "up and down" miles on the Gregory Bald Trail to and from Doe Knob, I was ready for the highlight of the day--the azaleas. 

According to  Hiking Trails of the Smokies, "On Gregory Bald, the azaleas are so genetically mixed that these small trees bloom in every color from white and pink to yellow and red. "

The British Museum of Natural History in London has even collected a few according to Hiking Trails of the Smokies. 

The bald was ablaze in color.  

Gregory Bald was named for one of Cades Cove's most prominent early citizens, Russell Gregory. According to this knoxnews.com article, Russell Gregory was a union sympathizer killed by marauding Confederates in 1864. 

According to Hiking Trails of the Smokies, "this bald has been a large open field for as long as white settlers have been in these mountains.  No one is sure how grass balds were formed.  Theories suggest Indian development, lightning strikes, and even animal grazing." (Photograph courtesy of Patricia McAlpin.) 

After lunch, picture taking, and rest, the only trail remaining to complete the 14.-3 mile trek was the Gregory Bald Trail to Parson Branch Road. 

The Gregory Bald Trail is a horse and hiking trail as noted by dots on the Great Smoky Mountains Trail Map.  Here is a link to the map which is very difficult to read.  I recommend you purchase a hard copy of the map for $1 at the park's Visitor Center to carry in your backpack.  I also recommend purchasing Hiking Trails of the Smokies if you have any interest in hiking the wonderful trails of the GSMNP. (Photograph courtesy of Patricia McAlpin.) 

About 30 minutes into the descent, a downpour of rain made the horse and hiking trail a slippery, muddy mess. Even though I was using trekking poles, it wasn't enough to prevent me from falling.

My first inclination was to yell to the hiker 20 feet ahead of me to request his assistance, but since no one saw me fall, pride got in the way. I stood up and figured nothing was broken. I could move my feet and toes, but I had sprained my right ankle.

I began hobbling down the mountain until some hikers ahead of me noticed my slow pace. It was time to admit my misfortune, and thankfully the hiker ahead of me slowed down to ensure I made it safely down the mountain as the rain continued.

When the hike was over, fellow hikers came to my rescue with pain medication, ice, and an ace bandage. Just to be on the safe side, after I got home I had my foot x-rayed to make sure there were no broken bones, but the radiologist noticed a previous injury. (I had injured my foot 40 years earlier while playing high school basketball.)

(Photograph courtesy of Patricia McAlpin.)

My hike to Gregory Bald was memorable not only for the beautiful azaleas, but for the realization that accidents do happen along the trail no matter how experienced the hiker. But despite my mishap, at least I can mark off one of my places to hike in 2014. (See January 17, 2014 blog post  "Looking to the Future.")

So for now, while I'm recuperating, I can keep on blogging while I encourage you to "Keep On Hiking." 

Here is great youtube video of Gregory Bald as well as a link to the Great Smoky Mountain Association's Facebook page with more amazing photographs of the azaleas. 

Good Ole Rocky Top

(Photograph courtesy of summitpost.org) 

We're all familiar with the song, Rocky Top.  Did you know there is an actual spot in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park (GSMNP) for which the song is named? At an elevation of 5,441 feet, Rocky Top is one of three summits on Thunderhead Mountain. It is located on the Appalachian Trail and provides spectacular 360-degree views of Cades Cove and the surrounding mountains.  It is a popular destination for both day hikers and Appalachian Trail thru hikers. 

Hikers represented three state:  Tennessee, Alabama, and Georgia. 

Ten hikers from the Chattanooga Hiking Club set out on a 15.7-mile day hike to Rocky Top on a beautiful day in late May. There are many reasons to hike to Rocky Top including bragging rights for University of Tennessee fans as well as hikers attempting to hike the 900 miles of trails in the GSMNP. No matter the reason, it was the hike of a lifetime and one we won't soon forget. 

The hike began on the Anthony Creek Trail in Cades Cove. 

We began hiking at 9:15 a.m. after greasing ourselves with sunscreen and bug spray. Backpacks were loaded with plenty of water, Gatorade, food, and snacks. It was going to be another exhilarating day on the trail.   

Hike leader Wayne Chambers is a "900-miler" which means he has hiked all of the trails in the GSMNP. 

Wayne had selected a challenging "in and out" route for us. Below are the trails we hiked to the summit of Rocky Top:    

• Anthony Creek to Russell Field - 1.6 miles
• Russell Field to Appalachian Trail - 3.5 miles
• Appalachian Trail to Spence Field - 2.9 miles
• Spence Field to Rocky Top - 1.25 miles

The first trail intersection was at Anthony Creek and Russell Field Trails. 

Beautiful flame azaleas along the Russell Field Trail. 

Rest stop along the Russell Field Trail. (Photograph courtesy of Linda O'Neal.) 

After hiking 5.1 miles and 2,000 feet of elevation gain, we arrived at the Russell Field Shelter on the Appalachian Trail, a good stopping place for lunch and spending a few minutes talking to Appalachian Trail thru hikers.  It was now time to regroup and continue our quest for Rocky Top.  (Photograph courtesy of Linda O'Neal.) 

The Appalachian Trail provided some beautiful flora and fauna and another 1,000 feet in elevation gain.  

Bluets 

Continuing on the Appalachian Trail to Spence Field.

 The view from Spence Field.

From Spence Field, it was another 1.25 strenuous miles to Rocky Top.   This was the toughest climb in my opinion. 

We made it and were rewarded with magnificient views of the Smoky Mountains.  (Photograph courtesy of Linda O'Neal.) 

It was time for photographs, singing, rest, and savoring the moment.  (Photograph courtesy of Linda O'Neal.) 

Another view from Rocky Top. (Photograph courtesy of Linda O'Neal.) 

With any hike to a grand summit, the descent is usually uneventful, but the return hike took a different route and included the following trails:

• Rocky Top to Bote Mountain Trail - 1.25 miles
• Bote Mountain Trail to Anthony Creek - 1.7 miles
• Anthony Creek to trailhead - 3.5 miles

At 7:15 p.m., we arrived at the Anthony Creek trailhead with aching feet, sweaty clothes, and empty stomachs. That's ten hours of being on the trail! We removed our boots, changed into clean clothes, and headed for a quick bite to eat at a local restaurant. After celebrating our conquest, we parted company and headed for home with a ton of memories and wishing we were back on Rocky Top. 

The song Rocky Top was written in 1967 by Felice and Bouleaux Bryant, and here is a link to the lyrics.  

"KEEP ON HIKING"