Beautiful Cumberland Island

In November of 2014, I was fortunate enough to join five members of the Chattanooga Hiking Club for an amazing three days of camping and exploring on Georgia's Cumberland Island.  Below are a few glimpses of an unforgettable trip as well as scenes of beautiful Cumberland Island.

The group of six.  Wait, where's the Professor and Mary Ann?  Believe me, this was no Gilligan's Island.   

Cumberland Island is Georgia’s largest, southernmost barrier island at 17.5 miles long and 3 miles wide.  It constitutes the westernmost point of shoreline on the Atlantic Ocean in the United States and is reported to be the largest “wilderness island in America.” 

The Cumberland Island National Seashore was created by Congress in 1972 with 36,000 acres sheltered by the national park and over 9,800 acres of wilderness protected by Congress under the 1964 Wilderness Act. 

A  foot-passenger ferry took us to Cumberland Island.  It departs from the St. Mary's Visitor Center on a daily basis.  The ferry does not run on Tuesdays and Wednesdays during December through February.  

The ferry carries no cars, bicycles, kayaks, or pets.  It leaves the mainland at 9 and 11:45 a.m., and the island at 10:15 a.m. and 4:45 p.m.  Ferry reservations can be made up to six months ahead by calling toll free 1.877.860.6787.  Fees are charged for ferry service, entrance to Cumberland Island, and camping.  

Don't worry, the ferry will allow you to carry whatever supplies you need to be comfortable while staying on Cumberland Island. 

The island has three docking stations.  We departed at the second stop, Sea Camp Ranger Station. 

Sea Camp Campground offers restrooms, cold showers, and drinking water.  A camping permit and reservation are both required. One cold shower in November was enough for me! 

After camper orientation at the ranger station, we hauled our luggage and supplies down this sandy lane to our assigned campsite.

A few wagons, found at the ranger station,  were essential in hauling our luggage and gear to the campsite. 

Our campsite easily accommodated three tents with "Godzilla" becoming talk of the campground. Each campsite has a fire ring and picnic table.  I was lucky enough to camp in "Godzilla" with two other ladies.  At 5'11",  I could easily stand inside without my head hitting the top of the tent. 

Food storage bins are provided at each campsite to prevent raccoon and opossum from your food supply. Some varmint actually gnawed its way into a bag of our Tostitos. 

No more details, let's go exploring. 

Beautiful Spanish moss in the sprawling live oak branches. 

Dungeness Ruins, on the southern end of the island, is easy to access from the first ferry docking site (Ice House Museum.) Revolutionary war hero General Nathanael Greene was granted land on Cumberland Island in 1783. His widow built a four-story tabby home and named it Dungeness.  

Today, this is all that remains of Dungeness even though in 1884 Thomas Carnegie and his wife Lucy began building on its foundation.  

There are acres and acres of marshes at Cumberland Island. Marshes are Earth's most productive lands with their nutrients feeding large populations of fish, shellfish, plants, and birdlife. 

The marsh buffers the island's landward side from twice-daily influxes of tidal flow, and they also absorb some storm impacts. 

Horseshoe Crab along the beach. 

Not sure how the armadillo arrived on Cumberland Island. (Photograph courtesy of Patricia Smith.) 

Is that a dorsal fin? (Photograph courtesy of Patricia Smith.) 

There are many feral horses on the island. Safety regulations are explicit:  "Don't approach feral horses, they are dangerous and kick and bite.  Feeding any wildlife is both prohibited and dangerous. 

Walking along the beach is a delight for shell collectors. 

Cumberland Island winters are short and mild.  Summer temperatures range from the 80's to low 90's.  According to park rangers, November and December are the best months for camping on the island. 

From time to time, there are managed hunts on the island.  (Photograph courtesy of Patricia Smith.)

Sunrise

Sunset (Photograph courtesy of Patricia Smith.) 

 I think that I shall never see......A poem  lovely as a tree--from Trees by Joyce Kilmer. (Photograph courtesy of Patricia Smith.) 

A concessioner on the island rents bicycles --a great way to explore the island. (Photograph courtesy of Patricia Smith.) 

After three full days of hiking, exploring, food, fun, and fellowship, it was time to leave the island.  Departing was bittersweet as Cumberland Island is such a magical place.  Everyone in our group looked forward to a warm shower and clean feet.   (Photograph courtesy of Patricia Smith.) 


Whether you like to travel, hike, or just love the outdoors, there is something for everyone on Cumberland Island.  Go ahead and plan that trip to Cumberland Island... you won't be disappointed.  I hope you will "Keep On Hiking"

Special thanks to Patricia Smith for planning and organizing such a wonderful trip. 

The Azaleas of Gregory Bald

"It is still insisted there can be nothing finer than this trip to Gregory Bald in azalea time."  - Smoky Mountain Hiking Club bulletin, 1937 

The Great Smoky Mountain National Park (GSMNP) has become one of my favorite places to hike thanks to my involvement with the Chattanooga Hiking Club. According to a favorite hike leader, “one of the most beautiful hikes in the Smokies is to the summit of Gregory Bald in mid-June when the azaleas are in bloom.”

Over 20 hikers from the club began their annual trek to view the world-famous azaleas in mid-June. There were two options for getting there: an easier route via the Gregory Bald Trail, or a longer, more difficult route via the Gregory Ridge Trail. The easier Gregory Bald trail is a 9-mile "in and out" trek starting at Parson Branch Road at Sam’s Gap which requires driving the Cades Cove Loop Road.  

I enjoy a challenge so I decided to hike the longer, more difficult route (14.3 miles) starting on the Gregory Ridge Trail at Forge Creek Road which also requires driving the Cades Cove Loop.  This longer option would also enable me to "mark off" several trails in the GSMNP as part of my long-range goal to hike all the trails in the Smokies. This route also required a shuttle. Here is the longer, more difficult route:

Gregory Ridge Trail to Gregory Bald Trail - 5 miles

Gregory Bald Trail to the Appalachian Trail at Doe Knob - 4 miles (in and out)

Gregory Bald Trail to the summit of Gregory Bald - 1.2 miles

Gregory Bald Trail to Parson Branch Road - 4.1 miles

The first two miles of the Gregory Ridge Trail follows Forge Creek and is fairly easy with a moderate elevation gain of 500 feet to Campsite No. 12. 

Campsite No. 12 is a great place for a rest and water break. 

After leaving the campsite, the 2,400-foot climb to Rich Gap begins and provides spectacular views of the western end of the GSMNP.   

It is a challenging hike at an average slope of 800 feet per mile. The undergrowth of the forest is beautiful. 

While catching my breath, I took a few moments to capture the beauty of the forest.  

According to the website, Fungal Biodiversity in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, there are over 3,500 species of macrofungi in the park. 

Some fungi are degraders, breaking down leaf litter and wood into nutrients needed by trees and shrubs.

At five miles and over 2,600 feet in elevation gain, you'll find the junction of the Gregory Ridge Trail and Gregory Bald Trail at Rich Gap. 

At Rich Gap, a left turn took me to the Appalachian Trail at Doe Knob. This 2-mile trail is not easy, but I can mark off this elusive section of the Gregory Bald Trail.  

After hiking four "up and down" miles on the Gregory Bald Trail to and from Doe Knob, I was ready for the highlight of the day--the azaleas. 

According to  Hiking Trails of the Smokies, "On Gregory Bald, the azaleas are so genetically mixed that these small trees bloom in every color from white and pink to yellow and red. "

The British Museum of Natural History in London has even collected a few according to Hiking Trails of the Smokies. 

The bald was ablaze in color.  

Gregory Bald was named for one of Cades Cove's most prominent early citizens, Russell Gregory. According to this knoxnews.com article, Russell Gregory was a union sympathizer killed by marauding Confederates in 1864. 

According to Hiking Trails of the Smokies, "this bald has been a large open field for as long as white settlers have been in these mountains.  No one is sure how grass balds were formed.  Theories suggest Indian development, lightning strikes, and even animal grazing." (Photograph courtesy of Patricia McAlpin.) 

After lunch, picture taking, and rest, the only trail remaining to complete the 14.-3 mile trek was the Gregory Bald Trail to Parson Branch Road. 

The Gregory Bald Trail is a horse and hiking trail as noted by dots on the Great Smoky Mountains Trail Map.  Here is a link to the map which is very difficult to read.  I recommend you purchase a hard copy of the map for $1 at the park's Visitor Center to carry in your backpack.  I also recommend purchasing Hiking Trails of the Smokies if you have any interest in hiking the wonderful trails of the GSMNP. (Photograph courtesy of Patricia McAlpin.) 

About 30 minutes into the descent, a downpour of rain made the horse and hiking trail a slippery, muddy mess. Even though I was using trekking poles, it wasn't enough to prevent me from falling.

My first inclination was to yell to the hiker 20 feet ahead of me to request his assistance, but since no one saw me fall, pride got in the way. I stood up and figured nothing was broken. I could move my feet and toes, but I had sprained my right ankle.

I began hobbling down the mountain until some hikers ahead of me noticed my slow pace. It was time to admit my misfortune, and thankfully the hiker ahead of me slowed down to ensure I made it safely down the mountain as the rain continued.

When the hike was over, fellow hikers came to my rescue with pain medication, ice, and an ace bandage. Just to be on the safe side, after I got home I had my foot x-rayed to make sure there were no broken bones, but the radiologist noticed a previous injury. (I had injured my foot 40 years earlier while playing high school basketball.)

(Photograph courtesy of Patricia McAlpin.)

My hike to Gregory Bald was memorable not only for the beautiful azaleas, but for the realization that accidents do happen along the trail no matter how experienced the hiker. But despite my mishap, at least I can mark off one of my places to hike in 2014. (See January 17, 2014 blog post  "Looking to the Future.")

So for now, while I'm recuperating, I can keep on blogging while I encourage you to "Keep On Hiking." 

Here is great youtube video of Gregory Bald as well as a link to the Great Smoky Mountain Association's Facebook page with more amazing photographs of the azaleas. 

Good Ole Rocky Top

(Photograph courtesy of summitpost.org) 

We're all familiar with the song, Rocky Top.  Did you know there is an actual spot in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park (GSMNP) for which the song is named? At an elevation of 5,441 feet, Rocky Top is one of three summits on Thunderhead Mountain. It is located on the Appalachian Trail and provides spectacular 360-degree views of Cades Cove and the surrounding mountains.  It is a popular destination for both day hikers and Appalachian Trail thru hikers. 

Hikers represented three state:  Tennessee, Alabama, and Georgia. 

Ten hikers from the Chattanooga Hiking Club set out on a 15.7-mile day hike to Rocky Top on a beautiful day in late May. There are many reasons to hike to Rocky Top including bragging rights for University of Tennessee fans as well as hikers attempting to hike the 900 miles of trails in the GSMNP. No matter the reason, it was the hike of a lifetime and one we won't soon forget. 

The hike began on the Anthony Creek Trail in Cades Cove. 

We began hiking at 9:15 a.m. after greasing ourselves with sunscreen and bug spray. Backpacks were loaded with plenty of water, Gatorade, food, and snacks. It was going to be another exhilarating day on the trail.   

Hike leader Wayne Chambers is a "900-miler" which means he has hiked all of the trails in the GSMNP. 

Wayne had selected a challenging "in and out" route for us. Below are the trails we hiked to the summit of Rocky Top:    

• Anthony Creek to Russell Field - 1.6 miles
• Russell Field to Appalachian Trail - 3.5 miles
• Appalachian Trail to Spence Field - 2.9 miles
• Spence Field to Rocky Top - 1.25 miles

The first trail intersection was at Anthony Creek and Russell Field Trails. 

Beautiful flame azaleas along the Russell Field Trail. 

Rest stop along the Russell Field Trail. (Photograph courtesy of Linda O'Neal.) 

After hiking 5.1 miles and 2,000 feet of elevation gain, we arrived at the Russell Field Shelter on the Appalachian Trail, a good stopping place for lunch and spending a few minutes talking to Appalachian Trail thru hikers.  It was now time to regroup and continue our quest for Rocky Top.  (Photograph courtesy of Linda O'Neal.) 

The Appalachian Trail provided some beautiful flora and fauna and another 1,000 feet in elevation gain.  

Bluets 

Continuing on the Appalachian Trail to Spence Field.

 The view from Spence Field.

From Spence Field, it was another 1.25 strenuous miles to Rocky Top.   This was the toughest climb in my opinion. 

We made it and were rewarded with magnificient views of the Smoky Mountains.  (Photograph courtesy of Linda O'Neal.) 

It was time for photographs, singing, rest, and savoring the moment.  (Photograph courtesy of Linda O'Neal.) 

Another view from Rocky Top. (Photograph courtesy of Linda O'Neal.) 

With any hike to a grand summit, the descent is usually uneventful, but the return hike took a different route and included the following trails:

• Rocky Top to Bote Mountain Trail - 1.25 miles
• Bote Mountain Trail to Anthony Creek - 1.7 miles
• Anthony Creek to trailhead - 3.5 miles

At 7:15 p.m., we arrived at the Anthony Creek trailhead with aching feet, sweaty clothes, and empty stomachs. That's ten hours of being on the trail! We removed our boots, changed into clean clothes, and headed for a quick bite to eat at a local restaurant. After celebrating our conquest, we parted company and headed for home with a ton of memories and wishing we were back on Rocky Top. 

The song Rocky Top was written in 1967 by Felice and Bouleaux Bryant, and here is a link to the lyrics.  

"KEEP ON HIKING"